A whole array of colorful squashes appear at the start of autumn- cooking them this way intensifies their natural sweetness and they make a perfect vessel for a rich, warming filling.

Different squashes have different types of flesh- the best are the heavier, denser flesh varieties that roast better. Go for a carnival or an onion squash.

Serves 4

4 evenly sized round squashes-  tops cut off and the seeds and a little flesh scooped out and discarded

200ml crème fraiche

1 red chili, seeds removed and finely sliced

12 sage leaves

75g finely grated pecorino or Parmesan

Grated zest and juice of half a lemon

½ tsp. ground cinnamon

Sea salt and black pepper

Heat an oven to 180oc

Place the squashes cut side up in a roasting tray. Its important they stand up straight- if not sit them in a “nest” of baking foil so they sit erect. Also sit the cut lids in the tray.

Mix the crème fraiche with the chilli, cinnamon, seasoning and the lemon juice and zest.

Fill the cavities of the squash with the crème fraiche mix and then drizzle the tops and lids with oil and season again.

Lay over a sheet of foil and crimp around the tray. Cook in the oven for about 50 minutes – 1 hour or until the squashes are tender- a knife inserted into the skin should glide through.

Remove the foil and sprinkle over the grated pecorino and divide out the sage leaves onto the tops of the squashes. Turn the oven up to 220oc

Place the squashes back in the oven for 15-20 mins or until the cheese has gratinated and the tops browned.

Serve the squashes immediately with crusty bready to dip in the molten crème fraiche.